Fineness: indicates the average diameter of the fiber used for the yarn. The higher the value, the more fine and precious the fiber is. Fabrics with a high fineness can be particularly delicate and need more attention and care.
The fineness of the wool is commonly indicated according to a “super” classification system, with values between 100’s and 250’s:
- 100’s – 140’s: resistant wool, excellent for making men’s clothes for everyday use
- > 150’s: wool used for incredibly fine fabrics, valuable and exceptionally soft
- > 160’s: ultrafine wool, excellent for creating light and extremely luxurious fabrics, which however require specific treatments due to their delicacy
The fineness determines the value and use of a wool, but can not be considered as an exclusive indicator of quality. The finer a wool is, the more it will be soft and exclusive, but the quality of the fabric also depends on the type of raw materials and the working process.
Weight: refers to the weight of a single fabric meter. The so-called “four seasons” clothes, i. e. considered usable from autumn to spring, are made with fabrics between 240 and 270 gr/m. Wool fabrics suitable for summer weigh less than 240 g/m, while winter fabrics start at 270 g/m.
It is important to remember that this measuring system only applies to woolen fabrics. A linen fabric, for example, can weigh up to 390 g/m, but the “breathability” and resistance properties of the fibers make it one of the best summer fabrics.
Warmth: indicates the level of warmth that a fabric is able to offer. There are very heavy fabrics in terms of gr/m, but still they are ideal for summer season (e. g. linen) and fabrics that are simultaneously light and very warm (e. g. cashmere). The “warmth” is therefore an additional indication, to be considered in close correlation with the “weight”.
Excellence: indicates the exclusivity of a fabric, evaluating at the same time different parameters such as fineness, fiber type and textile brand notoriety.